A Short Autumn Trip to Kashmir: Pahalgam and Apple Orchards

Part 1 in a series of posts on Kashmir. The extraordinary, almost unearthly beauty of the Kashmir valley made it a strange conflict to cover. In the morning, the window of my houseboat on the Dal Lake would be open, and as I lay in bed I could see the reed cutters and fishermen. The shikara canoes would be in the foreground; behind were the bridges and … Continue reading A Short Autumn Trip to Kashmir: Pahalgam and Apple Orchards

St. Anne Church, Olaulim, Goa

St. Anne church is a hidden gem in the quiet Olaulim village. We found it while riding around Pomburpa village, during our stay at the Loja. In the evening, churchgoers gather here for mass. The rest of the day, the Church stands quietly. Witnessing life passing by for the last 266 years or so. The gentle sway of trees, the white of the church, and the slightly overgrown … Continue reading St. Anne Church, Olaulim, Goa

Top Things to do in Vietnam

“Vietnam. It grabs you and doesn’t let you go. Once you love it, you love it forever.” Anthony Bourdain Things to do in Hanoi, Vietnam. The French Old Quarters is the heart of Hanoi. It feels straight out of Arabian Nights, with old buildings, temples, pagodas, and markets. Most travelers stay here. It is close by popular destinations, such as the Temple of Literature, Hanoi opera house, … Continue reading Top Things to do in Vietnam

Cantonment Railway Station – An Illustrated Travel Story

Urban Sketching At Cantonment Railway Station Last weekend, our Urban Sketchers meet was at the Cantonment Railway Station, Bangalore (BNC). While most of us were geared up to sketch amidst the bustle and chaos of a typical Indian railway station, what we found was a place of astonishing stillness. The arched walls and green rooftops look as though they simply stood still and refused to … Continue reading Cantonment Railway Station – An Illustrated Travel Story

Benne Dosa at Gururaj Canteen, the Oldest Dosa Canteen In Davengere

On our way to Sirsi, on a hot summer afternoon in May, we stopped at Davengere, to sample the Benne Dosas which have made this tiny city so very famous on the Karnataka map. And of course, we wanted to have it at the most authentic place possible. After some scouting around in the busy city street, typical of small towns like this, with fruit … Continue reading Benne Dosa at Gururaj Canteen, the Oldest Dosa Canteen In Davengere

The INTACH Warrior of Orissa: Anil Dhir

‘Traveling—it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller.’ – Ibn Battuta Orissa is often in the news for all the wrong reasons – a cyclone, famine, political issues. Living outside Orissa for many years, I have often found friends and colleagues clueless about the cultural and historical significance of this ancient land. So, this year I was planning to travel to Bhubaneswar for … Continue reading The INTACH Warrior of Orissa: Anil Dhir

The Last Stalk Standing at Cubbon Park

The Withering Bamboo Grove Be Like the Bamboo The Higher You Grow The Deeper You Bow – Chinese Proverb Bangalore’s sprawling Cubbon Park was teeming with people as usual. Quintessential young couples lost in their world. Fitness enthusiasts sprinting while chatting breathlessly. Nature enthusiasts Instagramming away.  Photographers doing portfolio shoots of one too many expecting moms (a new trend). I spotted one lady lying down on her … Continue reading The Last Stalk Standing at Cubbon Park